By Dr. Crystal Lee

Let’s be honest, dark circles can be pesky and difficult to part ways with. These dark circles are often associated with a lack of sleep and tiredness but these are only some of the many contributing factors. Let’s take a deep dive into the multiple factors to determine the best treatment option.

Why am I getting dark circles?

       1) Part and parcel of ageing

Dark circles are a very common concern affecting both male and females. Getting older plays a huge role in the formation of dark, sunken undereye due to natural loss of facial volume and skin thinning. The tissue under our eyes, called the suborbicularis oculi fat (SOOF) shrinks and descends with age, creating a shadow. With age, the delicate skin under our eyes also loses its collagen and elastin, accentuating the volume loss and shadows. As the skin becomes thinner, the deeper capillary beds also become more noticeable.

       2) Too little water or too much caffeine?

If you are really dehydrated, this could also reflect on your skin turgidity and may worsen your dark circles. Ensure that you are drinking plenty of water and not an excessive amount of caffeine, alcohol or any diuretics that could lead to dehydration. If you have dry or dehydrated skin, a good hydrating eye cream could be life-changing!

       3) Are you sleep deprived?

Self-care, especially adequate snooze time is essential. Dark circles related to sleep deprivation can happen to anyone seriously lacking in sleep. Sleep deprivation can result in the vasodilation of blood vessels resulting in an increased blood flow. To keep these pesky dark circles at bay, aim for a good night's sleep!

       4) Simply your genetics!

Some people have darker pigmentation under their eyes than the skin elsewhere and this is called periorbital hyperpigmentation. This is often hereditary and more prevalent in Southeast Asians. Shadowing due to anatomical orbit could also be another contributing factor - it’s simply the way your bones are fused, casting a shadow under your eyes, resulting in dark undereye. Other than that, genetics play a role in thin translucent skin that could result in prominent vascular undereye.

       5) Pigmentation

Hyperpigmentation can also be a result of post-inflammatory changes. This could be due to sun exposure, dermatitis, or repeated eye rubbing! As the skin around the eyes are super delicate, skin irritation around that area can result in post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

       6) Allergies and other medical problems

Allergies such as rhinitis and hay fever can result in dark circles which is referred to as “allergic shiners”. Nasal congestion leads to the pooling of blood under the eyes – these blood vessels dilate, creating dark circles and puffiness under the eyes. Don’t forget that certain metabolic and malabsorption syndromes could also be underlying cause of dark circles!

So, how do I tell the difference?

The causes of dark circles could be broadly categorised into three main categories: structural, vascular, and pigmentation.

If you’re unsure of whether your dark circles are a result of actual pigmentation or, a shadow, try stretching the skin of your lower eyelid. The discolouration will remain the same if it’s due to hyperpigmentation and will improve if it’s due to the latter cause. Unlike hyperpigmentation (usually brown discolouration), dark circles due to vascular causes tend to have a blue or purple hue.

Let’s tackle it!

Many dark circles are multifactorial with several underlying causes, requiring different cocktails of treatments. Before jumping into any treatment option, let’s start with some lifestyle changes that you can practise to help improve the appearance of dark circles

       Lifestyle changes

First, ensure that you’re taking care of yourself well in terms of diet, sleep and mental health. Quit bad habits such as smoking and drinking alcohol - aside from causing dark circles, they are also terrible for your overall health! Stress and poor sleep can cause blood pooling under your eyes, resulting in dark circles.

Sun exposure can also cause dark circles under the eyes, by increasing the melanin content. The skin under the eye is very delicate and can pigment easily so don’t forget your sunscreen.

As hyperpigmentation can result from inflammatory processes, avoid rubbing your eyes and always be gentle when washing your eyes or removing makeup. If you suffer from allergies or sinus congestion, ensure that you speak to your physicians about taking antihistamines.

       Caffeine

Caffeine in skincare acts as a vasoconstrictor which may help reduce redness, puffiness and dark circles. Aside from that, they have great antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. That’s why moist tea bags are a great DIY remedy to help brighten those tired looking eyes!

       Retinoids

Retinoid is known for its extensive evidence in promoting cell regeneration and collagen stimulation to keep your skin youthful. This should be used with caution when using around the eye to prevent any unwanted skin irritation. Remember, to start slowly with low concentration.

       Humectants & Emollients

Great humectants such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid and AHA can help boost and plump up the undereye while emollients such as ceramides, fatty acids and squalane are crucial in maintaining a strong skin barrier. This perfect duo is perfect for the ultra-thin and delicate skin around the eyes!

       Vitamin C

Vitamin C helps brighten skin, acts as a powerhouse antioxidant whilst stimulating collagen production. It works synergically with ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and Vitamin E. Eye creams containing vitamin C can help brighten dark circles caused by pigmentation or skin ageing.

       Vitamin K

Vitamin K helps with blood clotting, wound healing and has anti-inflammatory properties. Eye creams containing vitamin K pairs well with other ingredients such as arnica, vitamin C, vitamin E, caffeine and even retinoid!

All in all

Skincare products can only do so much! If your dark circle is persistent, it is best to speak to your doctor as they may be best addressed with cosmetic procedures such as dermal fillers, lasers, platelet-rich plasma injection, or a fat transplant.